For pre-fall, Zuhair Murad ventured into unexpected territory with an unorthodox pairing: the ’60s-era interior decorator Dorothy Draper and Alice in Wonderland.
Sounds wild, but it’s not as far-fetched as it seems. Murad found a kindred spirit in Draper, a committed anti-minimalist who defined the Hollywood Regency style with riots of bold color, baroque flourishes, large-scale prints and mirrors everywhere. For the designer, her free-wheeling ways with pattern, texture, and scale naturally brought Alice to mind, and he duly showered this collection with chromatic hearts and diamonds on tulle, lace, and duchess satin. Three-dimensional effects took pride of place, in macramé mixed with red velvet, diamanté motifs on black velvet, and skin-baring appliqués or cut-outs. For floral lovers, amped-up roses appeared in a lush black, white, and saffron print on silk charmeuse.
That said, Murad exercised restraint in several instances: lilac did the talking on a bustier gown in lustrous taffeta, an apple green ballerina dress was embellished simply with slender bows, and black t-shirt shapes were judiciously garlanded with sparkly appliqué at the neckline or the sleeves. Meanwhile, he gave his sense of humor free rein on evening and red carpet looks, charmingly on a gown with a black velvet bodice and a heart- and diamond-embroidered lilac skirt. And while heart pockets and placements on the breasts may not be the designer’s strongest play, they speak to his love for his client base. Murad admires strong women, and here he brought to life an array of characters — the well-mannered Alice, the indomitable Queen of Hearts, and (standing in for the White Rabbit) the sultry Jessica Rabbit—and welcomed them all to his party. In these diverse and empowered times, that’s key.
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