The Vogue Guide to Capri: Where to Eat, Sleep, and Sunbathe on the Mystical Island

The grand dame hotel of Capri is undoubtedly the Hotel Quisisana. If you’re looking for a place to see and be seen, look no further. Situated in a lively part of old town Capri, the street-side patio of the Quisisana is home to a restaurant that is never not bustling during high season. By day, breakfast and lunch are served; as the day goes on, aperitivo becomes dinner, and then it’s more cocktails and quite a lively atmosphere well into the night. Inside, rooms offer views of the Faraglioni, or the heart of town. Originally built as a sanatorium in 1845 by a British doctor, the Quisisana, which translates to “here one heals” is sure to offer you the respite you need.

Beach Clubs

Opened in 1949, La Fontelina began as a humble beach shack eatery but it didn’t take long for the jet set to discover it in the ’60s. To access La Fontelina, you’ll have to take a long flight of stairs starting near the Punta Tragara hotel. Don’t underestimate the journey and come with practical shoes. The destination will be worth it. Instead of sand, there are slabs of limestone and the famous blue-and-white striped beach chairs to lounge in. Today, a trip to La Fontelina, which always includes lunch, is a Capri must. Like all beach clubs here, reservations are required and book up quickly.

On that same staircase down to La Fontelina, you’ll find Da Luigi. Another equally scenic beach club, Da Luigi is situated nearby one of the three formations that make up the Faraglioni. The place bills itself as Capri’s de facto living room. Since its opening in the 1960s, it’s been a place for relaxation and respite beneath the sun.

Over in Anacapri, Lido del Faro is a beach club set beneath the Punta Carena lighthouse. Here, fewer tourists flock but the experience is no less remarkable. There’s a restaurant with perfect views and fare, and for when the waves are too rough, which often happens, there’s a saltwater pool for swimming.

The fashion set is known to flock to Il Riccio, the beach club with the Michelin star. It’s most recently been the host of a Dior pop-up but even without such programming, the space is not to be missed. Come here to lounge on a daybed (access to the water is limited) and lunch at the restaurant which offers sweeping water views.

Where to Eat

You’ve probably already seen photos of Da Paolino without even knowing it. Located above Marina Grande and situated in a lemon tree-filled garden, Da Paolino is a must-go. To dine here is to dine beneath a canopy of citrus (nets catch falling fruits). Order a Caprese, the island’s eponymous salad, and the lemon spaghetti. And no meal here is complete without a bit of limoncello.

For a more rustic meal, head to the family-run pizzeria Le Grottelle. As its name suggests, the restaurant is comprised of nooks and crannies carved out of the rock face. Meals are cooked on an outdoor grill and the dining terrace looks out onto Campanella point.

For dinner with a side of nightlife, head to Villa Verde. Located in old town Capri, the white table-clothed restaurant is great for big groups and big nights out. Seafood is their specialty but the entire menu won’t leave you disappointed.

Capri’s dining scene is famously and delightfully relaxed but when you want something more distinguished, L’Olivo is the best choice. Helmed by chef Andrea Migliaccio, who hails from nearby Ischia, the restaurant boasts two Michelin stars. Set within the Anacapri’s Jumeirah Capri Palace, the restaurant’s signature dish is the lemon-scented homemade tagliolini pasta with burrata cheese, red prawns, and sea asparagus.

What to See

When he died, the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe left behind a legacy as a healer as well as a reputation for generosity—he would treat impoverished patients without charge. He would also leave behind Villa San Michele, his home and garden in Anacapri which has been lauded as one of the most beautiful in Italy. With impressive horticultural knowledge, Munthe filled his gardens with rare and exotic flora. Today, Villa San Michele is a destination for tourists curious to see the idyll Munthe once inhabited.

Rent a Boat

Though you’ll arrive by boat, a trip to Capri isn’t complete without a more private boat ride tour. From here, you’ll be able to get close to Casa Malaparte (the Italian Modern masterpiece built in the late 1930s after Adalberto Libera’s designs), which is otherwise closed to the public. Gianni’s Boat service is a local favorite but note that the blue grotto is only accessible by smaller row boat.

Those with a fear of heights might want to skip this recommendation, but otherwise, a trip to Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri, shouldn’t be missed. Take a chair lift—a skimpy open-air vessel that sits one person per lift—from Anacapri, around the corner from the Jumeirah Capri Palace, which will transport you to the incredible views and an old 19th-century fort and gardens. A windy day might have you clutching your pearls but the ascent is also half the fun.

A short walk from the center of old town Capri will lead you to a botanical garden you could easily spend the afternoon enjoying. Comprising a series of terraces overlooking the sea, the gardens teem with local vegetation and geraniums, dahlias, and broom flowers. Here, a 180-degree panoramic vista of the island is also available; as is a view of the Faraglioni and a view of the serpentine footpath of Via Krupp.

A favorite after-hours haunt, Taverna Anema e Core has long lured those in search of a dance floor and a good time. By far the most famous club on Capri, Taverna Anema e Core opened in 1994 and has earned a position as an island institution—quite a feat for an island with such a history as Capri’s.