Forget cut crease eyeshadow looks and precision cat-eye flicks. According to Peter Philips, creative and image director at Dior Makeup, there’s an easier way to wear your eyeliner: deconstructed. “We have created a deconstructed eye—something between a smoky eye and an eyeliner,” he tells me backstage at the French fashion house’s fall 2023 show. “It’s a strong look—up close, it looks beautiful, but it is also visible from far away, which was essential because the catwalk is huge.”
With models walking down a “colorful set, full of textures,” designed by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, Philips’s aim was to create a beauty look that stood out without clashing against the eye-catching background. “If you do really elaborate makeup, it blends in with the background. It’s better to stand out, so the deconstructed eye fit the bill, alongside a very nude face and lip.”
Taking inspiration from strong French women in the ’50s and ’60s—underground French singer and actress, Juliette Gréco, a regular on the bohemian scene in Saint-Germain-de-Pres, was a key muse—Philips wanted to evoke the “melancholic mood” of the time via the eye makeup. “This look is not a literal interpretation of how the makeup was worn in those days, but more about the feel of the time,” he says. “It’s melancholic, a bit nostalgic and sad, just like Saint-Germain in the ’60s. At the same time, it feels almost punk.”
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