Glycolic acid has disrupted the beauty industry, and how! From pigmented elbows to cracked heels, this product is much sought-after to treat a range of skin woes. While glycolic acid is not new to the beauty world, its uses were earlier limited to brightening and treating acne.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and a water-soluble acid derived mainly from sugarcane. Out of all AHAs, its simplistic molecular structure allows it to penetrate the skin better.
Experts call it an extremely effective chemical exfoliant that helps get rid of dead cells on the outer layer of our skin, revealing the new, radiant skin underneath. “It accelerates cell turnover, bringing younger cells to the surface. It also helps get rid of dullness and pigmentation,” says Rahul Yadav, co-founder, Be Minimalist.
“Glycolic acid increases collagen production and helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines,” adds Dr Hardik Dodia, a cosmetologist, Shalby Multispecialty Hospitals, Ahmedabad.
How long does it take for results to show?
Dr Chytra V Anand, a cosmetic dermatologist, Founder and CEO, SkinQ says it takes two weeks to notice skin smoothing benefits and four to six weeks to see a difference in pigmentation.
“If you use a glycolic acid mask, which is created for deeper penetration, the results will be immediate. But, if you use serums, cleansers or moisturisers that contain glycolic acid regularly, you could see results in a month,” adds Dr Dodia.
The skin will have fewer blemishes since the acid keeps the pores clean, and in two months, the skin starts to look more even toned. Between one to six months, the exfoliation will reveal radiant skin with increased collagen production and decreased wrinkles.
Side effects
Like any other potent treatment, a few precautions need to be taken while using glycolic acid. “Avoid using it after any skin treatment, like facial, waxing, etc. till your skin recovers, which is around 45 to 72 hours. Using any strong actives after such treatments will do more harm than good. Using a broad spectrum SPF 30 or above is strongly suggested if you are using glycolic acid-based products. Chemical exfoliation reveals fresh skin cells, so it’s important to protect those new cells from harmful UV rays,” cautions Yadav.
Overusing this AHA on the thin surface of the skin can lead to dryness and irritation. Hence, it’s best to use products that contain 10% glycolic acid. Any product containing higher concentration than this should be used only after seeking expert guidance.
Word of caution
Always patch test on your neck overnight.
Do not use on irritated skin.
Use no more than 10-12% of concentration.
If the skin starts burning or turns red, one should wash off the product immediately.
Glycolic acid is great for those with dry skin and pigmentation.
Tips to use glycolic acid correctly
If you’re new to glycolic acid, start with a product that has low concentration (5-10%), like face wash, body wash or serum. Use one-two times a week.
Once your skin has got used to this AHA, you can use products with concentration higher than 10%, like a leave-on serum or a wash-off chemical exfoliate.
For the face, use a facial kit, mask or peeling solution for up to 15 minutes. For the body, use an exfoliator or body mask two-three times a week, for five to 10 minutes.
AHAs increase our skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is best to use it at night and use sunscreen during the day. If you use AHAs during the day, layer it with moisturiser and sunscreen.
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