Days prior to a show in Milan, the brand page featured a video of a creative director (Karlsson) wearing a “Cash Cow” hoodie with a disguised voice announcing a new chapter for the brand. This 2020 Parson’s grad is now, with a partner, the co-owner of the female-owned brand, which will have headquarters in the designer’s native Sweden and show elsewhere. It’s a big step for Karlsson, whose transition from artwear (while in school the designer, with artists Ida Jonsson and Simon Saarinen, created The Bum, a wearable silicone replica of Kim Kardashian’s backside that was meant as a commentary on celebrity culture) to ready-to-wear is ongoing. Fall found the designer still fixated on the topic of celebs, showing separates that read “Hot,” “Rich,” and “Famous”—which is basically the dream that Instagram enables.
Still, Karlsson is now focused on customers as well as commentary, with an emphasis on what she calls the “luxury streetwear” that makes up most of her wardrobe. One of the most dramatic looks, an oversized bedazzled hoodie worn with the brand’s distinctive Moonster boots, had an engaging Manga-inspired silhouette; fun, but not unexpected. A pinstriped mini coat dress with an extended collar and asymmetric closure was a nice addition to the designer’s repertoire. A cute printed mesh top and mini seemed sure to appeal to a Gen Z consumer, and had the added appeal of being made with deadstock fabrics. Karlsson described herself as feeling part of Gen Z but also able to see it from the outside. She’s observed a tendency among creatives “trying to be different for the sake of it,” but said that’s not a road she wants to take. It’s clear that the designer can deliver Instagram moments, but they come with creative commentary, and, increasingly, covetable clothes. Watch this space.
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