“I am grateful to have been part of the incredible team laying strong foundations for a purpose-driven future for fashion, and I am so proud of the positive change we have collectively achieved in developing a business and design perspective that puts our people and our environment first,” Hearst said in a statement. “Very few houses have such a history of strong female leaders who have each made their unique contribution to the maison, under the inspirational legacy of its founder Gaby Aghion. I feel empowered and excited about the work done at Chloé and, moreover, to leave a clear message that a woman can do it all and have fun while at it.”
During her tenure, Chloé pursued a brand elevation strategy, drawing on Hearst’s understated aesthetic and passion for craftsmanship. She oversaw the launch of its low-impact Nama sneakers — which have become a bestseller — and the Gayia glasses, made with recycled acetate. She is also behind several collaborations including with Moon Boot, Teva, Barbour and Eres, aimed at widening the Chloé clientele. Her Autumn/Winter 2023 collection includes refined leather tailoring techniques, “a detail only a customer could appreciate in a shop”, Vogue’s Sarah Mower wrote. “I like it that nothing is gimmicky. They’re not clothes for Instagram,” Hearst said at the time.
Sales across Richemont’s “other” division, which includes Chloé alongside the likes of Montblanc and Alaïa, rose 19 per cent to €2.7 billion in the year ended 31 March 2023. The Swiss conglomerate doesn’t break down revenue by brand, however, Richemont CEO Jérôme Lambert stressed “a positive dynamic” at Chloé during the earnings call in May. According to estimates by Morgan Stanley analyst Edouard Aubin, Chloé’s annual sales were €660 million for the fiscal year ending 31 March, up 26.9 per cent on the year prior.
Chloé was founded by Aghion in 1952. The house has been through many incarnations since, under creative direction from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon, Clare Waight Keller and Natacha Ramsay-Levi. Chloé’s announcement doesn’t mention a successor, but the house is known to be committed to female designers.
It’s understood one of the names being considered to take part in Chloé’s next chapter is Chemena Kamali, who has been design director for women’s ready-to-wear at Saint Laurent since July 2016. She worked at Chloé between 2012 and 2015 as head of design for ready-to-wear and design director for pre-collections, according to her LinkedIn profile. Chloé declined to comment.
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