Grim headlines be damned, Zuhair Murad’s customers are craving pink—the hue worked so well for Resort that it was back in force for spring, in solids, sunset hues and in prints inspired by natural wonders like Rainbow Mountain in Peru or the Salt Domes of Zagros as captured by the German aerial photographer Tom Hegen.
But while Murad’s silhouettes may have been inspired by rock formations sculpted by the wind since time immemorial, the couturier’s throughline is freedom of body and spirit. For spring, he channeled that mood through new fabrics and treatments, such as micro-pleated printed organza trimmed with lace at the neckline, or otherwise unadorned draped and pleated satin.
The designer also drew an equation between flou and freedom, and what he dialed back in ornamentation he made up for in mashups, like splicing lacquer-finish lace with mesh, mixing chiffon with waves of stand-up lace, or—more conservatively—showering an ethereal ecru gown with 3D flowers in re-embroidered silk thread. And, in the name of freedom, Murad even joined the bralette bandwagon—not his usual style, but the designer is nothing if not clear-sighted about what his younger base wants to wear.
For evening, dresses were molded to the body, their cut-outs trimmed in strass. A black jacket, sharply tailored in front, was backless on the flip side. A fuchsia taffeta jacket embroidered with tonal flowers came with matching shorts. Anchoring a draped white jersey dress was a new totem laden with symbolism: a gold-finish phoenix rising from the ashes.
Even so, embellishments—some restrained, others not so much—made a strong statement for evening. Gradient beading showered down bustlines, a ’70s-inflected minidress sported a fireworks display of sequins, and russet or slate blue evening numbers channeled The Great Gatsby by way of Murad, sassy fringe and all. Those, plus a bronze bustier dress with rays of sequins, for example, will probably land on the red carpet come awards season, right around the time Murad inaugurates his third boutique, in Doha.
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