For fall, Henry Zankov was in a languid state of mind. “I was thinking about seduction and nurturing,” he said during his presentation at a gallery space in Tribeca. It’s easy to be seduced by the soft, enveloping textures of a gorgeous knitted sweater, but he wanted to push it more. “It’s more about expressing a subtle sexuality through the colors, which are bright and intense,” he said, “How do we seduce not just through exposing our body, but through color, pattern, materiality and texture?”
The seduction began with dresses and separates in cutout intarsia knits that created a kind of DNA strand pattern. A zip-up jacket in cobalt was interrupted by a curvilinear brown stripe that followed the shape of the body: “A way for us to play with shape and introduce our version of outerwear,” said Zankov. One of the best pieces was a collaboration with the artist Daniel Reynolds, whose work hung on the walls of the gallery where the presentation took place. Reynolds works with large, expressive fields of color, and one of his pieces, a white square furiously scribbled with neon pink, the expressiveness of his mark perfectly recreated through screen print, was on a delicate white sweater with extra-long sleeves.
Skirts were embroidered with sequins and then screen printed. They had an alluring opaque shine, especially when paired with oversized sweaters. It was a little bit grunge, a little bit cozy country. In that same vein, an oversized sweater robe and maxi dress had the instant appeal of heirloom blankets. One in chocolate brown and the other in grey, they both featured the designer’s signature variegated stripes in the season’s bright color palette. They were fuzzy mohair alpaca on the surface, but were lined in wool on the inside to avoid itching. “A lot of the materials this season are more extreme,” Zankov said. “They’re more brushed, they’re softer, the stitches are a bit more loose, so it’s this idea of being hugged, being embraced.”
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