Why Morningbird Is Upstate New York’s Most Exciting New Restaurant

Wong credits her former partner from Van Da, the restaurateur Yen Ngo and the artist Darren Waterston, for inviting her upstate to partake in the duo’s mammoth multi-dining project. This spring, The Nest, a cozy cocktail lounge featuring its own menu by Wong, will debut in a separate space behind Morningbird, followed by The Aviary, a 100-seat restaurant in a sprawling, steel-framed structure with a soaring, cathedral-like ceiling in early summer. The largest of the three venues, both in scale and concept, the Aviary will showcase mostly Indonesian fare. It was a decision that Ngo and Waterston had established from the get-go, despite Wong’s initial unfamiliarity with that particular cuisine. Wong embraced it as an unexpected, but welcome challenge. “Cooking a new style of food with different kinds of flavors than those you grew up with—to learn how to do that with care and intention is very important,” she added. 

So far, the payoff has been visible and vocal. “A couple came in last week, and they said they drove 45 minutes to pick up my khao soi. I worried that mine wouldn’t live up to their own taste memories, because that’s such a subjective thing. But it lived up to my own memories from traveling through that region,” Wong said. “I think the flexibility that we allow ourselves has been an asset. We don’t take ourselves too seriously, and are allowing some room for exploration and just seeing what works…it works for us.” 

Sambal Chicken

“Sambal is a classic Indonesian chili-based condiment that’s particularly great as a base for marinades and sauces. There are dozens of versions, so I encourage anyone to explore the many variations available. I love this dish because it balances all of the flavor notes that I love. It’s at once sweet and savory, umami-rich, spicy, acidic, and herbaceous.”  — Chef Hannah Wong

1 pound boneless chicken thighs

2 tbsp sambal terasi, or more to taste* (we make ours in-house but any preferred brand will do)

2-3 tbsp fish sauce 

1 tbsp vegetable oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 lime, cut in half

1/4 red onion, thinly sliced

1/4 head cabbage, shredded

1 handful mint leaves, torn

1/2 bu cilantro, roughly chopped

1. Mix sambal, fish sauce, vegetable oil, and garlic in a medium bowl. Add chicken, and marinate for 30 minutes to an hour.