Menswear interpretations of ’90s minimalism—that trendy wave of neutral Jil Sander skirts and Calvin Klein suits—seems to have gotten completely lost or forgotten about by 90s enthusiasts. Once upon a time, cream turtlenecks worn under boxy blazers and loose bowling shirt paired with relaxed trousers filled country clubs and hip bars alike. People dressed boring on purpose. (As a 1998 Vanity Fair article on 90s wealth observed, “So coldly austere are the new designer stores—Giorgio Armani, Polo Sport, Calvin Klein, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino—that they seem to eschew the very notion of luxury.”)
But when contemporary brands like Supreme or Aimé Leon Dore turn to the decade for inspiration, they tend to take the casual and streetwear trends. The overalls, bootcuts jeans, and oversized jerseys of the ’90s have overshadowed the deep v-neck sweaters, silky shirts and moto jackets.
Which is why watching Will trounce through eight seasons in a collection of clean, sleek outfits felt delightful for this new Vogue writer. Perhaps part of my attraction to Will—a well-off, neurotic lawyer—is how his deceptively plain looks operate as an antithesis to the maximalist, color-heavy direction today’s fashion is heading in. During Will & Grace’s heyday, menswear religiously stuck to neutrals. Calvin Klein, Armani, Helmut Lang, and Brooks Brothers were the definition of Manhattan cool. Some other great examples from the era of quiet luxury include Ryan Phillippe in Cruel Intentions and Christian Bale in American Psycho. There was an art to simplicity.
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