Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2022 Collection

Ulla Johnson has a new logo. The letters are hand-drawn and the serifs are mostly, if not completely, gone. It’s less a reimagining than a subtle shift, but there’s a surprise. The collection’s teddy fleece parkas are finished with a patch in which her four-letter first name has been transformed into a tight, graphic hieroglyph. It’s the Ulla Johnson version of the monograms that have become ubiquitous across fashion, and a signal about her ambition. Here’s another: By the time this collection ships, Johnson’s new LA boutique should be open for business.

Pre-fall was shot in New Mexico at Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch. Not coincidentally, Johnson put an emphasis on utility, with the aforementioned parkas, and with washed engineer stripe denim used for wide-leg trousers and skirts with handkerchief style hems. She didn’t give short shrift to her signatures: Victorian-ish puffed sleeves, hand-knit sweaters, and ruffles, lace, and pattern mixing were all well rerepresented in this large collection.

Usually, though, romance is at the fore, and this time around she was talking up the “muscularity” of certain pieces. An oversized herringbone coat had a slightly more masculine sensibility; a cropped jacket with an exaggerated collar accompanied by full cropped trousers struck a gamin-like note; and there was perhaps a boyishness to vests that fit snugly over familiar, more feminine shapes. The black and white bandana embroideries that open the lookbook also looked new: more graphic and bolder than the softer patterns elsewhere. Also: really lovely, intricate workmanship.

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