Tomo Koizumi has shifted to an annual schedule, choosing to reveal a new batch of his confectionery dresses just once a year. This time around, Koizumi partnered with Rakuten and Tokyo Fashion Week, staging a live show at Tokyo’s Edition Hotel with a small audience. Guests were treated to his latest and greatest red carpet frocks—and yes, these are pieces truly destined for the step-and-repeat.
Speaking over Zoom, Koizumi explained that he’s leaning into celebrity associations. Rather than models, he cast Japanese actors and musicians including Shinobu Terajima, Satsuki Namayaka, Ichikawa Somegorō VIII, Aoi Morikawa, and Yuki Matsuda. The celebrities dressed to their personality and taste, which in turn meant that Koizumi pushed his ruffle-centric designs into new territory. Namayaka, one of Japan’s first openly trans actors, wore a black suit that exploded with dark brown ruffles over a white shirt with a crystal collar. Terajima, a legend of the screen, got a cobalt ruffle dress in Koizumi’s signature strapless, full skirted shape. In between came tracksuits, capes, minidresses, and column gowns in new acid colors and neutrals.
The news was the way Koizumi adapted his ruffles into trimmings rather than the main affair. Column and mermaid-hem gowns make use of tiny frills along seams; they nod to the oversize pieces that first garnered Koizumi recognition without weighing down wearers in layers of tulle organza. “My new collection is opening my new chapter, opening a new door,” he said, fantasizing about traveling to Los Angeles or New York to dress stars in his pieces. As travel regulations ease, that certainly seems feasible. Until then, there are these glamorous portraits by Koizumi’s friend, the photographer Mika Ninagawa.
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