While Tom Ford could not be reached to discuss this collection of menswear (leaving a senior design team to relay background intel instead), the founder’s finely-manicured fingerprints were clearly visible upon it. The Tom Ford Ocean Plastic timepieces and Tom Ford big shades were blatant accessories to the prime ready-to-wear event. You could almost detect a headily-spritzed whiff of Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille or Neroli Portofino while considering a collection that delicately advanced the house’s fundamental menswear identity while simultaneously reinforcing it.
This broke down into three overlapping facets. The first was louche formal tailoring, with a hint of 1950s in the cut, reportedly inspired in part by Ford’s recent shooting of nu-Elvis Austin Butler. The broad-shouldered, 1.5 breasted ‘Austin’ suit shape, new this season, was the clearest testament to that. It came delivered in multiple jewel-toned shades and creamy alternatives. The fabrics ran from viscose and wool to mohair, and Austin plus its co-stars were often styled with sneakers and double-zipped silk bombers worn in lieu of waistcoats. There was a trench in silk that should never encounter rain if you want to preserve its looks.
Then came the louche semi-formal casual wear. This encompassed skinny-hipped silhouettes and featured Cafe Racer jackets in stamped animalia-pattern leather or quilting effects. There was a nappa leopard trucker worn over a leopard silk shirt which was in turn worn above a leopard silk tank. Leopard pants and ponyskin leopard boots prowled south to complete a look with more leopard than Lampedusa. The denim was carefully ripped and repaired in homage to Ford’s own lockdown-scarred staples. Velour animalia pajamas provided this chapter’s climax.
The third facet angled towards louche elevated sportswear. A fine mesh that had previously been hinted at was brought to the fore in blousons and tanks worn over patterned viscose shorts—once a no-go for Ford but of late a happy category. Then came robes in expressively patterned velour. At the end Ford u-turned back to tailoring, presenting a handsome wad of $10k – $20k couture-ish level jackets in beading or ultrarich moire fabrics. The final encore came courtesy of the quintessential mid-century US evening jacket: the Ratpack uniform remixed afresh by Ford.
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