They are like a sea of gray bodies. Huddled together, their pleated skirts flipping out in the breeze. The grosgrain tabs on their knee socks jutting out at weird angles. Their cheekbones jutting out at even more arresting ones. No, no, not the cast of Outlander, but the fans of Thom Browne, who are so wholeheartedly devoted to his modus operandi they could ditch their own names and go by Clan Browne.
And maybe they will. In 2006, Browne registered a proprietary tartan in the official Scottish register. He has used it intermittently throughout his collections in the dozen-odd years since, and now he brings it to the fore with an all tartan takeover collection.
Presented in photographs that evoke 18th century American portraiture, the TB tartan collection spans men’s, women’s and children’s and debuts as a collection of imagery during New York Fashion Week. “It was nice being able to do something small for this moment and to really fill in the space of what’s happening here in New York,” says Browne of the decision to launch a project during Fashion Week. “It is especially nice to keep the momentum going throughout the year, as opposed to just always relying on those four collection shows.”
The tartan collection is tailored to Browne’s specific shapes, including a new half-pleated skirt and a sorta new strapless bustier dress for men. A nylon plaid puffer, all cushiony and plush, is certainly for everyone. While the exact shapes and prints used here are different from what Browne will show in his April 29 menswear and womenswear fall 2022 show, he says there is a philosophical connection between the collections related to the “idea of using heritage ideas and heritage fabrics.”
It’s just over two months to wait for Browne’s newest runway collection. But one thing is certain: It will be attended by Clan Browne in all their tartan finery.
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