“With little more than milk and sugar, you too can create a shared moment of frozen, sweet happiness,” Jacob Kenedy writes in the introduction for his new cookbook, Gelupo Gelato, a sugary anthology of gelato recipes inspired by his Soho, London sweet shop. Although “a shared moment,” let alone one of “sweet happiness” might seem like a tough ask in this pandemic age, it’s easy to crack a smile over most, if not all, of his 80 recipe offerings, which range from white chocolate and lavender to Ricotta and sour cherry, and peanut butter and jelly.
A former student of Il Gelatauro in Bologna, Italy (considered by some to be the best gelato in Italy), Kenedy explains how, exactly, to turn your kitchen into a home gelateria. No idea what base bianca is? Don’t worry, he defines it on the vocabulary list page. “The sweetened and thickened milk mixture used as the base for making different flavors of gelato. While there are other bases (chocolate, egg custard, caramel, ricotta and so on), base bianca is the commonest.” Wondering what equipment you need as a home chef? He breaks it down with colorfully illustrated graphics (an ice cream maker and a blender are a must). Confused about the science? Kenedy gives a one page explanation on the interactions of sugar—and why you need a stabilizer. (In most cases, you can use corn starch.) And best of all, he offers gentle encouragement: “Its preparation is, broadly speaking, a simple process,” he writes.
As the days get hotter (and frankly, more stressful), perhaps a sweet treat that’s a culinary crafting adventure is the exact activity to take your mind off things. So, we asked Kenedy to share his mint stracciatella gelato recipe (essentially mint chocolate chip but with chocolate flakes, if you want to get technical about it) below.
Mint Stracciatella
Makes 15 scoops
Ingredients
For the base bianca
⅔ cups granulated sugar
⅓ cup skimmed milk powder
Stabilizer: 1 level teaspoon locust bean gum powder; or 2 tablespoons starch (arrowroot or cornflour)
2 ¾ cups whole milk
⅓ cup glucose (aka dextrose) syrup or powder, or light runny honey
For the mint stracciatella gelato
1 ¼ cups mint, with stalks (2 really big bunches)
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