Of course, Abercrombie & Fitch is riddled with controversy. This year’s documentary White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch addresses the brand’s alleged hiring practices, which favored white employees with thin and fit body types. “It’s not my intention to recreate what Abercrombie & Fitch was doing or promoting,” Allen says. “My intention is to promote and build a brand identity with a new perspective with this familiar product.”
His obsession boils down to the quality of yesteryear Abercrombie & Fitch. “The technical and fleece vests are all Patagonia-level quality,” he says. “All of the distressing and vintage details are super authentic and not contrived-feeling at all.” Allen is not the only collector; there is a community of Abercrombie & Fitch archivists in Japan, which is primarily where he gets his pieces. “While runways were informing what mall brands were doing design-wise, they–A&F, etc.—were not skimping on the quality of the pieces.” He makes the comparison with a pair of jeans. “I have 5-pocket leather Gap bootcut jeans that are the same exact quality and cut of a pair of Tom Ford-era Gucci ones,” he says. And as a testament to the quality, currently, Allen keeps the first piece he ever bought, a multi-color striped Shetland wool sweater in his freezer.
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