Fall is here, and with it, an inclination towards orange wine. If refreshing rosé is the drink of the summer, and full-bodied red goes with winter, the amber-hued alcohol is the perfect sipping companion for shoulder season as the temperature idly drops along with the leaves.
A quick breakdown: orange wine, also known as “skin-contact” wine, is crafted from white wine grapes whose skins are left on for longer during the maceration part of vinification. As a result, the juice absorbs their color, and the beverage morphs into a marmalade shade. (This is also why you often see orange wines classified as “white” because, well, technically they are.)
This process also contributes to orange wine’s taste: “The fermentation on the skins is used to give texture, tannin and oomph to white wine,” explains Tamy Rofe, partner and sommelier of Colonia Verde and Disco Tacos.
This skin-on technique has been around for many thousands of years, especially in its birthplace of Georgia. However, it recently gained traction in the United States around 2016, coinciding with the natural wine movement. Four years later, it has popped up in liquor stores and restaurants from Portland to Brooklyn. “It’s time to taste white wines that are electric and expressive,” says Rofe.
But while most of us are well-versed on what kind of red, white, and rosé we prefer, orange wine might be less familiar. With that mind, Vogue asked 10 top sommeliers and experts to choose the best orange wine brands and bottles.
Below, their picks.
“This is a classic. It tastes like apricots, orange peel, and chamomile and has the color of a fallen leaf. Think of it as autumn’s answer to rosé.” -Danny Roosevelt, Parcelle Wines
“Orange wine can be found almost anywhere—we were surprised to find one from Canada too. This wine is a collaboration between the great restaurant Joe Beef and a natural winemaker from Ontario. It’s an orange wine that’ll be right for you if you like IPAs or even subtly sour beers.” -Danny Roosevelt
“A blend of two grapes (Grecanico and Inzolia) by one of the best producers of Sicilian wine. I love how there’s density and concentration of flavor, without heaviness on the palate. Slight tannins on the mouthfeel without being overwhelming. I’ve poured this wine for ‘non-believers’ of orange wine and I’ve turned them onto it with this!” -Barbara Wong, sommelier at Le Bernardin
“This is punk rock Gruner Veltliner—everything is dialed up. It’s a dry Austrian white wine but it’s also filled with loads of minerality and texture. It lets us see what wine can be when it is loud and expressive.” –Tamy Rofe, partner and sommelier of Colonia Verde and Disco Tacos
“Les Vin Pirouettes is a project by the pioneering biodynamic winemaker Christian Binner. It operates a bit like a record label, with Binner releasing affordable and approachable wines from like-minded Alsatian winemakers, made from their own grapes, exactly as they want them made. This “Bullette” (or “little bubble”—there’s a slight spritz when you open it) is an orange of 100% Riesling that’s mild, easy, and lovable, with flavors of juicy nectarine, peach fuzz, and apple cider.” -Rafa García Febles, sommelier and beverage director at Bar Blondeau and Le Crocodile
“This wine is a great way to dip your toes into the world of wines with skin-contact. Its balance of cantaloupe and hint of white tea tannins make it a perfect pairing for any aromatically spiced foods or it can simply be enjoyed on its own.” –Nikki Ledbetter, Beverage Manager of Shukette
“This is a wonderful orange wine that has bright tropical notes and dried flower petals. It has a tart acidity to it with a light orange hue and slightly rounder texture. We love this with winter and fall salads like those dressed with currant and field greens with a nutty shaved cheese. It has those deep autumn tones which with a vinaigrette is delicious!” -Amy Racine, sommelier at JF Restaurants
“I am truly impressed how a small family-owned tiny farm can produce wines that speak of a sense of place much more than some of the most heralded wines from other well-known regions. Here is a clear snapshot of what Croatia can do with some with these indigenous varieties, truly suited to this growing environment. It is natural, uncomplicated, raw, and expressive with dozens of aromatic layers and delicate textures. A lovely orange wine.” -AJ Ojeda-Pons, sommelier at Temperance Wine Bar
“Elios is located on the west coast of Sicily, and is the brainchild of two brothers that transformed their family farm (from producing olives and grapes to sell to large companies) into a respected natural wine hotspot. As fun as “Modus Bibendi” is to say, the Bianco Macerato is even more fun in the glass. It’s a great intro to someone looking to try orange wine for the first time, as it’s not too funky or intense. Instead, you’ll find balanced and bright notes of apricots, honey, mango, and more. This is definitely a personal favorite in the orange wine realm.” -Chris Lauber, food and beverage director at Modernhaus Soho
“I’ve loved this wine for over half a decade ever since serving it at Gramercy Tavern. It’s one of the more balanced, delicious, and accessible skin contact/orange wines I’ve ever tasted. It’s aromatic without being too perfumy, and unique without being funky or kombucha-y.” -Ben Howell beverage director and partner at Rolo’s
“This copper-hued orange wine made from Grachetto, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Garganega is thought provoking and energetic. I love this wine because it’s like drinking an herb laden, juicy orange. Paolo Bea only makes around 4500 bottles each vintage so it is fairly difficult to find. They produce the wine with low intervention and no added sulfur.” -Aaron Thompson of Brother Wolf
“Much like winemaker Ales Kristancic himself, this wine is an enigma. Bold and robust with the underbelly of soft, floral grasses and sweet honeysuckle. A wine with beautiful complexity and depth.” –Nikki Ledbetter
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