The Great Shoe Debate: To Heel, Or Not To Heel?

After a series of COVID-related cancellations and half starts, fashion month was back in February, yes—but not quite as we knew it. With the colossal cultural changes we are all facing after seasons of isolation, we seem to be in a kind of holding pattern in many ways, with no leading contenders emerging from the shows in at least one major category: shoes.

But is the pandemic to blame for the absence of such wonderments as the must-have new shoe? It’s convenient to think so—but it could also be that the great numbers of women forgoing heels in favor of something that fuses style and practicality is a larger cultural phenomenon that exists outside the pendulum of fashion. Pre-pandemic, heels seemed universally adored; out in the world now, though, in reentered corporate corridors and at the shows, less so: Of the 56 pairs of industry feet on one front row at Molly Goddard in London, there were only two notable heel-wearers (watching a runway of flats and platform boxing boots).

Full disclosure: Like most, I Zoomed through the pandemic in orthopedic-approved slides, sneakers, and dog-walking wellies. Savvy designers, meanwhile, paired up with comforting mega-brands like UGG and Birkenstock for alliances that continue to be pertinent—the latest, Manolo Blahnik for Birkenstock, is rocking our eveningwear choices with polka dots and crystal buckles. “I’ve always been doing what was right for the moment,” Blahnik tells me. “But I will tell you one thing: Without fantasy, there’s no point.”

Actor and activist Hari Nef is currently rushing from grocery run to rave in her R13 platform boots. “I’ve always favored platforms,” she says. “They’re both walkable and flattering.” They’re also elevating our increasingly erratic times, from Versace to Matthieu Blazy’s new work for Bottega Veneta. Still, the style is not for everyone. I consult Khaite’s Cate Holstein. “If you are a city woman, you are always thinking of comfort during the day,” she says. “At night, the same—but sharper and leaner.” Her Dallas knee-high boot is perfect for the first days of spring, but her Western-style Madison mule moves the same narrative into summer.