Spring 2024 Menswear

A heatwave, Hollywood, and hospitality all contributed to Todd Snyder’s relaxed yet elegant La Playa collection. Having settled on a ’50s photo of Gary Cooper and John Wayne in Acapulco as a starting point, the designer went to Italy where…

In Olivier Rousteing’s most recent roses-everywhere womenswear collection, one look seemed anomalous: a tailored jacket heaped with a swoop of embellished swallows. Turns out this was an Easter egg that prefigured a menswear collection…

Only rarely do you encounter issues in life that are more pressing than fashion, but sometimes, nonetheless, you do. One of those affecting a member of the Alexander McQueen team—since 100% happily resolved—meant that this presentation took…

“This season, the Tokyo James man is not listening to the noise,” declared designer Tokyo James as he called from his home country of Nigeria. “I want to emphasize that not every collection is the same, and that’s intentional,” he…

N. Hoolywood’s Daisuke Obana is a master at marrying “functionality and fashionability,” a term he used in regard to a specific look, but which applies to his work as a whole. He is an expert in vintage American workwear and military gear;…

Stefano Pilati is much admired for his talent and his innate sprezzatura. A sort of punk heir to Robert de Montesquiou, Pilati walked the runway at Louis Vuitton and showed up in Anonymous Club’s lookbook; he also makes a ghost appearance…

No designer is an island—even if many would likely prefer you to believe their creations are the product of individual genius, rather than the hard work of many. It’s this that makes Nicholas Daley’s genuine enthusiasm for showcasing the…

Hideaki Shikama uses Children of the Discordance as a magnifying lens into subcultures around the world. In the past, he’s imagined a post-conflict world, studied BMX and the aesthetics of the ’80s, and the ’90s street culture of the…

Eventful doesn’t begin to describe Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik’s year; in fact, it’s been simply chaotic. On the professional side, the pair “suspended” (Huseby’s word) their collaboration with Trussardi; closer to home, Isik was…

People smugly say: “if you know, you know.” But what if you don’t know, and think something might be worth getting to know? 4S Designs is a brand well worth getting acquainted with, whether you were in at the beginning of founder Angelo…