runway_review

Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten often look to a specific muse. For pre-fall, they drew inspiration from the late Jane Birkin and injected a coastal holiday-inspired mood into their designs. “Our aim was to radiate the charm of the…

Lorenzo Serafini envisioned pre-fall as a sort of face-off between the enigmatic appeal of Hitchcock’s 1950s divas and the pared-down sleekness of the 1990s. At a showroom appointment he said that while he was drawn to the magnetism of…

Marco De Vincenzo is making his mark on Etro, adding his own perspective to the label’s signature elements. At a pre-fall showroom appointment, he sounded confident; after the spring show, “the direction seems clearer,” he said. The potion…

“I’ve had an image of this woman in my mind,” Keisuke Yoshida said on a chilly November afternoon while explaining his new collection at a showroom in Tokyo. “In my head, she’s wearing an outfit, and I can’t tell if it is a wedding dress or…

It’s a picture perfect day in a Canadian forest. The scenery is enchanting—autumnal foliage, air crisp. The Dsquared2 posse is enjoying fishing and hiking near their cabin. But all of a sudden a dangerous bear jumps out of nowhere, hungry…

Challenging perceptions is MM6 Maison Margiela’s entire raison d’être. With its newAvant Premiere collection, the house took recent explorations one step further, venturing into territory both new and old, conflating those through sleight…

Portrait of an Explorer, the title of Stine Goya’s pre-fall lineup, might suggest a historical inspiration, but the designer’s focus is actually more personal. “We’re talking about how you as a person explore your sights inside, how you can…

Foregoing a slot on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Sukeina’s Omar Salam took his show on the road for spring 2024, presenting his collection—by invitation—in Africa and the Middle East, where his intricately worked, and dressed-up,…

By choice—and circumstance—Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring collection is framed by her changing relationship with time. The designer seems to be going through a restless period, one that began with her spring 2023 collection, which she…

Marni’s artsy quirk is rooted in the practice of its design studio—a sort of workshop where everything is done by hand, from the creation of garments, which are called “objects” and whose volumes are intended as couture-ish soft sculptures,…