runway_review

“My whole thing this year has been about securing my customer,” Frederick Anderson said at a preview of this pre-fall collection. “It’s about finding out where they are, what they’re doing, and moving towards them.” Anderson’s customer…

One often internally groans when a designer says they are inspired by florals. Say it with me, “groundbreaking!” So, it’s impressive when the designs feel fresh. Zoe Champion and Wei Lin were inspired by blooms for their pre-fall…

In his nearly six years at Carolina Herrera designer Wes Gordon has taken inspiration from many of Mrs. Herrera’s creations, but never from the designer herself. Being one of the most-photographed designers in the world, and by famous names…

Since executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin took the helm of the brand and brought on stylist Karla Welch as a creative consultant, St. John has been focused on seasonless American sportswear. For pre-fall, Chiarparin added a…

The world can be a harsh, scary place. Lela Rose felt this recently while reading the Walter Isaacson biography of Elon Musk, which made her reflect on the way society “is moving at warp speed to things that are incomprehensible.” Her…

Luxury’s guillotine fell once more last Friday, leaving the pre-collection pictured here as the last gasp of the twenty-something run (including menswear and pre-) produced under Matthew M. Williams at Givenchy since June 2020. Speaking…

It seems highly intentional that Stella McCartney is releasing this pre-fall collection today, in the midst of the climate change conference COP 28. Several days ago in Dubai the designer spoke about the enormous impact on the planet of the…

“I like to put a bit of myself into my collections,” says Victoria Beckham. For pre-fall she followed the threads of the semi-autobiographical mainline show she put on in Paris: ideas stemming from the weekend country-life she lives these…

This appointment with Glenn Martens in Diesel’s Milan HQ was his third collection presentation in six weeks. His endlessly intense working practice—back and forth between the big D and Y/Project—increasingly seems ingrained in the layered…

For resort, Mary Katrantzou went back to familiar territory, finding inspiration in architectural interiors. “We were looking at mid-century light artists like Paolo Venini, at all these intricate designs but filtering them into prints that…