Pre-Fall 2023 Menswear

Walk around the New York City streets as the weather warms up and one thing becomes abundantly clear: the quiet luxury trend that we’ve been hearing so much about (including from this website) is mostly, if not completely, a virtual…

Apart from one great pandemic-eve show that blended pre-fall and men’s mainline, Undercover pre-collections tend to remain relatively undercover. This season however Jun Takahashi delivered two servings of pre-, each differently gendered…

Lucie and Luke Meier’s practice at Jil Sander pivots around a balanced tension between opposites—a sort of art-meets-life dynamic, as the aesthetic they are after is very much a reflection of their personalities, their beliefs, and the…

Aged only a youthful 36, Oliver Rousteing is now 12 years into his stint as creative director of Balmain—which makes him the fourth longest-serving gun for hire of all the 40-plus equivalents in luxury fashion (excluding jewelry). Yet while…

“Call me Ishmael.” Along with the in-retrospect first-wave cancel culture opus The Scarlet Letter, Moby Dick was one of the great works of literature that emerged from the United States in the mid-19th Century. Interestingly it only became…

Nili Lotan spent the ’90s wearing Margiela and Jil Sander while leading design teams in New York City—first at Liz Claiborne, and then at Ralph Lauren. Those years deeply informed her perspective on fashion, and for pre-fall she channeled…

“It’s continuing that dialogue between the Parisian codes of the house and my version of Americana, which is heavily influenced by California and New York.” So said Matthew M. Williams (middle name Michael) of this continent- and…

RTA has a new creative director. Robert Liptak—an alum of Rick Owens, Anthony Vacarello, Saint Laurent, and, most recently, Tom Ford—is charged with refreshing the line best known until now for denim, leather, and a slinky, sexy outlook. He…

A year after Virgil Abloh’s passing, no menswear artistic director has been announced to replace him. But if the appointment is in a holding pattern, Louis Vuitton is a brand in motion. That’s the message this collection seems designed to…

Fausto Puglisi isn’t hemmed in by the Roberto Cavalli codes. Proof of that this pre-season comes from his muses Millicent Rogers and Georgia O’Keeffe. Neither were the glamazon type. Rogers was an oil heiress who turned to the fight for…