Fall 2023 Menswear

“If I was really going to go to the mountains and use things for their real purpose, I’d go to the specialist,” said Luke Meier of the pervasiveness of utilitarian design in menswear, some of which he often offers himself both at OAMC and…

Naturally gifted fashion designers often tend to craft garments as a form of autobiography. Angelo Urrutia is such a designer, and his gift is double. For as well as having an instinctive and long-practiced facility for clothing creation,…

Nina Simone’s mournful cover of Billie Holiday’s “Strange Fruit” segued into Kanye West’s furious sampling of it on “Blood On The Leaves” as a model in the palest of lime—from his baseball cap via tailored topcoat and collared hoodie down…

As ever intertwined with his experience within the evolution of ska, dub, and reggae in British culture, this Nicholas Daley collection was focused on the midlands tradition of 2-Tone. That was the name of the record label founded by Jerry…

“There’s this ’50s thing happening,” wrote Todd Snyder in his fall collection notes. He’s correct, designers continue to mine a deep vein of post-war nostalgia and the result is a return to form, expressed through tailoring. That means…

The attached scarf on the black coat in slide 2 of this lookbook unwinds to a good 20 feet. Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox dreamed it up as a sort of obi, cinched tight around the waist, and it requires a partner to do it up properly.That’s the…

The Hotel Regina, just across from the Louvre, is where many of my fashion colleagues rest their heads at the end of a long day of shows. Its proximity to A Jean Nicot, plus its creaky parquet floors and ancient plumbing are part of its…

Due to the death of a close relative last November, Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt elected not to show this season. Instead we caught up with them in a Paris showroom. Following last season’s womenswear debut at their co-ed Selfridges show,…

There’s been an endless amount of reporting on style subcultures dominating the online fashion discourse. Many of these, like "Cottagecore," "Barbiecore," "Clowncore," "Gorpcore," are rooted in a type of cosplay. Dressing up in costume…

Every NIHL collection is a close study of texture, materialization, and finding delicacy in the conventional. Every NIHL collection is also a close study of the contradictions that live within the hybrid nature of queer identity:…