The Copenhagen designer Stine Goya recently opened a showroom and store in London and is planning further expansion soon. The result is not only that Goya’s teams are bigger, they are also more multicultural, which is reflected in the pre-fall collection.
There are several Spaniards on the design team, and research for this season included group viewings and dissections of Pedro Almovódar’s films. Happily the results of this research were not literal but expansive. Prints are the mainstay of the brand and what looks like a marbled pattern is actually a riff on the director’s photographs of light reflected through Murano glass vases. This motif was applied to fluid fabrics as well as to a heavy cotton moto/mini combo that definitely had Penélope Cruz vibes. A black and white splatter pattern was derived from a scene in Vicky Cristina Barcelona in which the actress and Almovódar muse throws paint at a wall.
Goya continued to expand her offering of saturated solids, this time taking her palette in a warmer, even fiery direction, while paying attention to texture. This is a logical and practical extension of the designer’s work that is meeting with much success. Elsewhere, she has yet to fully untangle the sporty/dressy balance of the line. A pair of taffeta shorts in this collection was shown with a sort of industrial shirt as well as a puffy, Empire-line blouse. It’s nice to have options, but perhaps even better to commit to a vibe rather than hedging bets.
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