The title of Stine Goya’s fall show, Inside Out, can be interpreted in many ways. On an esoteric level it referenced Olafur Eliasson’s 2021 artwork “Life,” which focused on the boundaries between nature and architecture. On a material one, it drew attention to the designer’s first reversible pieces, printed puffers that are floral on one side, silver metallic on the other. Inside Out could also describe what’s happening at the company as it restructures with the aim of becoming a global player, à la Ganni.
A growing celebrity following certainly suggests there’s room for expansion. The checkerboard knits that Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner favor were well represented in this show. The first look, a shaggy neon yellow set, was similarly street style-ready. Floral jacquard coats and mixed print looks tapped into the brand heritage, while dégradé rainwear seemed to be inspired by Eliasson’s light works.
In fashion, silver often signifies futurism; maybe that’s why Goya chose to use it. The color worked on the outerwear, but two mirror-like silver dresses felt out of place. The show opened and closed with 1990s-inspired slip dresses, some with a tulle overlay, others with surface decorations. This seems in keeping with the party mood in fashion.
Goya is one of the designers responsible for making Danish fashion synonymous with a colorful bohemianism and relaxed sense of cool, which relates to her own style and the world she crafted in the capital. Let’s hope that as the brand grows it doesn’t lose its sense of the personal or the local, but continues to export what makes Copenhagen special to women everywhere.
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