It’s only the first day of New York Fashion Week, but from what I’ve seen and previewed so far, many collections seem to be tighter and sharper, which augurs well for the season as a whole. Sea is one of the places where this change is in play.
Monica Paolini and Sean Monahan designed their ski-themed Gucci Vault capsule at the same time they were working on the fall line-up, and carried the Bavarian themes from the collaboration over to the main line. “I kept trying to think of how we could transform that, crossing it with men’s and more of a minimalist, chicer approach to things, where it seems like fashion is going,” said Paolini. Take Ivy proved a useful reference, she said, though the collection has much more of a “French girl” vibe than a preppy one, and within that context is more Left than Right Bank.
The homey Americana of the past few seasons hasn’t been abandoned, but set aside in favor of a polished bohemianism to which elements of sportiness and tailoring have been added. Paolini Sea-ified track pants by adding crochet side stripes that curved around the leg, and offered a color-blocked jumpsuit made of a Japanese ripstop fabric that added a bit of a tomboy element into the collection. There were many small surprises in the line-up, such as a fisherman’s sweater with a shirt back, long shirt dresses peeking out from the slit of a midi skirt, the melon-shaped sleeves on a double-face topper, and the softest teddy coat made from a material derived from plastic water bottles. Such design tweaks and styling tips transformed classic pieces into hero pieces. Pairing a blazer with lacy cut-work took some of the “sugar” out of hyper-feminine dresses; the addition of a lace panel into a tweed skirt worked in the opposite direction. This was a collection in which harmonious balances of opposites were beautifully achieved. Steady as she goes!
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