The idea behind Random Identities, explains Stefano Pilati, is that you anybody can make it their own, even to the point of writing your own name in the blanks on the label. “Excerpts” of Pilati’s past writings appear in the brand’s fall collection. There’s a priest-like sweater, for example, and a barrel shaped coat that bears some relation to his work for Saint Laurent, but there’s no doubt that this is an “alt” lineup that carries with it some the spirit of Berlin, where the brand is based.
Pilati wanted to put a spotlight on queer culture this season; “I think it’s a conversation that definitely should keep going, the designer said. There’s a jockstrap-like bag of vegan leather, an embroidered bra logo on sweatshirts, and jackets bearing a Queer Culture logo, an iteration on club graphics.
Pilati lavishes a lot of attention to details. Some pleats on pants are inset with mesh, and a sort of Spage Age coat has buttoned panels at the hem that can be worn open or closed. He’s chosen recycled service fabrics to work with. For some reason, Vincent Gallo popped into mind, probably something with the cut and length of the pants—which is sure to be an asset for the hipsters and club goers that the collection seems aimed at. Pilati retains his deft touch and the cuts make these clothes truly versatile. In a brown jumpsuit from the offering worn over a white shirt with an ascot, the designer had all the elegance of Boldini’s painting of Count Robert de Montesquiou.
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