Seeing a pre-spring collection in the showroom in mid June and writing about it for Vogue Runway in mid October, it dawns on you just how much designing clothes is a leap of faith. It’s never been easy to know how the world will feel four months—or further—in the future. Add the pandemic to the mix, and it’s harder still.
So, all credit to Rachel Comey for getting her pre-spring so right. “It’s going to be around the holidays, and we could be in a post-pandemic phase,” she said back in June. “I think we’re going to want things that are joyful and kind of surprising.” Arriving in her stores and on her e-comm site over the next couple of weeks, her new collection includes plenty of little delights: an easy dress made party worthy by its collage of clashing sequined patterns, a gold velvet bed jacket, a particularly swishy pair of full-leg culotte jeans.
Comey designs by instinct; she’s motivated less by trend than by her own needs and desires. The payoff for her customers comes from her innate sense of play and fun. “I’m kind of over the basics,” she said at that appointment four months ago. Really, they’ve never held much interest for her, but she made her point by choosing eye-catching fabrics—like coated linen with the high shine of patent and plaid flannel in an unlikely baby pink colorway—and by using other emotional colors, like sunshine yellow and pool blue.
Beyond those swishy denim culottes, there’s a wide variety of jeans: high waist and button fly, tapered and cinched at the hems, and a cropped flare in chalky acid wash. A printed silk slip with wide bands of white lace at the edges is another dress we’re likely to see on the party circuit this season.
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