There comes a moment in August when the truth becomes unavoidable. Summer is ending, the leaves in Central Park are “not exactly faded but fading,” as Joan Didion once wrote, and September with its back-to-real-life schedule is bearing down upon us. August is the cruelest month, a time for endings, save for this hopeful thing: the arrival in stores of designer’s fall collections.
Rachel Comey’s new lineup won’t just tame the specter of approaching cold weather; with its many layers and knits in all shapes and sizes it might make you look forward to the change of seasons. Look 1 sets the agenda: The model wears a boxy deep purple wide wale corduroy shirt over an acid wash jean jacket over a hammered silk shirt buttoned all the way to the collar.
A bra top and tailored vest sliced at the midriff (the erogenous zone of 2022) make appearances, but they’re sidenotes. Comey’s stories this season are the acid wash denim in interesting silhouettes like tunics and baggy front-pleat jeans, the oversize tailoring—really oversize in the case of a red-silk-lined top coat—and the knits. Front seam cropped pants in a playful flower intarsia have lots of personality. Ditto a floral print jersey turtleneck and pleated midi-skirt worn with matching flower print boots.
That’s a key to Comey’s appeal, she makes real-life clothes that leave room for surprise. September-around-the-corner might not be so bad.
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