Is it time once and for all to change the name of the pre-seasons? Shouldn’t resort be winter and pre-fall summer? That’s the question Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez put forward with this collection. Though it opens with an unlined technical jersey jacket light and airy enough for the hottest months, the heart and soul of the lineup is a strapless terry jersey dress that looks like the towel you’d wrap around your torso as you exit the pool, or step out of the shower, its effortless effect achieved by an internal corset.
Proenza Schouer’s pre-season collections are “less wrapped around a theme, and more wrapped around great pieces for everyday,” McCollough said. Summer wardrobe maintenance was the task at hand here, so they riffed on the drawstring jersey dresses that proved to be recent hits, but cutting them as bodysuits and pairing them with trousers, or by rethinking their sexy, cutout-boasting shape in glossy leather in a sunny yellow shade that has become a go-to color. Another summertime winner will be a slinky white matte viscose crepe dress whose single braided back strap is also lifted from a previous season.
A newer exploration is the polo neck knits they sprinkled throughout the offering. The designers themselves have taken to wearing polo shirts again lately after many years. Here, they cut them in a metallic knit with high, wide waistbands that produce a slightly blouson shape, or in ribbed silk viscose for a clingier line. There’s also a polo neck dress in icy blue mesh crochet with a band of fringe at its ankle-length hem.
On the subject of everyday wear, there’s a smart-looking pantsuit featuring trousers with a deep waistband, front pleats, and generous volume through the legs—the wide-leg pants trend continues apace. Elsewhere, a cropped jacket with four flap-front pockets in bistretch bouclé tweed “almost feels like knitwear,” Hernandez promised. With the addition of an eco-cashmere turtleneck sweater, it’ll work for when ‘pre-fall’ turns to fall.
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