Carolina Castiglioni introduced denim for resort, signaling that her Plan C offer is in expansion mode. She also smoothed the edges of the collection’s utilitarian feel to pursue a more sophisticated approach. Although done subtly, it was a perceptible shift.
While keeping lines clean and graphic, Castiglioni worked on the details of each garment to make it more expressive. Cue the addition of asymmetry-creating side panels to ankle-grazing skirts and straight-cut slip dresses, and draped gatherings at the back that gave a sweatshirt its rounded shape. Playing with the functional, a trench coat in tobacco canvas was actually composed of two distinct pieces that can be worn separately—one an elongated waistcoat, the other a detachable cropped bomber. “The look is simplified, but only deceptively,” she pointed out at a studio appointment.
Plan C’s sporty and slightly tomboyish attitude was also toned down a notch in favor of new tailored propositions, another first for Castiglioni. Masculine blazers were offered both in roomy and small-proportioned versions and paired with very short shorts in a palette of light pastels that replaced the bold color-blocking of past seasons. “It’s always rather pragmatic, but more elegant,” she said.
The lineup was given a gentler touch via decorative textured surfaces like sequins, encrusted lace, fans of plissé inserts, embroidered mesh, and nylon with a liquid finish. Letting her softer side surface, Castiglioni loosened up a certain rigidity in favor of a more nuanced angle.
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