Carolina Castiglioni isn’t exactly keen to talk references or to give hints about the inspirations and subtexts underpinning her collections. She bets on her own world and her own style; every season, she returns to her preferred set of parameters, repeating them with slight variations. At the very least, she’s rather reticent to talk about anything other than her work.
For fall, she riffed on her repertoire of workwear-inspired outerwear staples, built on uncomplicated, roomy, architectural shapes enlivened by saturated color-blockings, intarsia, patchworks, and plays between feminine and masculine elements. Researching fabrics with a technical feel and interesting surface texture is one of Castiglioni’s pleasures; this season she experimented with an unusual vertical-horizontal quilting pattern on techno taffeta for elongated, modular piumino puffers, as well as with round-shaped macro sequins silkscreen-printed in abstract florals, replicating the collection’s main printed theme. Another example was a cotton/nylon blend with a translucent liquid effect and a rubbery finish, made into a padded trapeze coat in a bold shade of cobalt blue.
Contrasts played out across the collection. Dresses in floral-printed georgette ran counter to tailored coats cut with an industrial feel; a patchworked shearling bomber had detachable knitted sleeves. Custom-made printed macro sequins trimmed the hem of a felted straight skirt, while in their micro version they covered the front of a black sleeveless tunic. The offer was energized by Castiglioni’s favorite colors, bright shades of magenta, yellow, and cobalt blue.
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