In his tenure at Philosophy, Lorenzo Serafini has explored the notion of romanticism at length. For resort, he went for a minimalistic version, turning to the current fascination for the sleekness of the ’90s to give his otherwise gentle repertoire a laid-back twist.
He called his take on the of-the-moment ’90s trend “romantic minimalism,” explaining that to be modern, grace has to be rectified with clarity and definition. To that end, he kept silhouettes slender without detracting from their softness; even masculine tailoring, while sartorial in construction, was expressive of a certain sensuality. Slightly oversized blazers were cut in smooth, luscious satin, fit for both day and evening occasions; waistcoats in fresco di lana, a dry wool usually used in menswear, were reduced to backless bibs worn on bare skin, or elongated into minidresses. The pantsuit of the season cut an hourglass figure, with a tight-fitted double-breasted blazer and straight, knee-length shorts.
Because this collection will land on sales floors in time for Christmas, Serafini worked on a series of party dresses that tied up flirtatious appeal and neat contours. A standout was an evening gown in satiny black techno duchesse, with a plunging neckline and a sculpted ankle-grazing skirt, that would’ve exuded a sort of Breakfast at Tiffany’s vibe, if it wasn’t for the addition of leather flip flops that kept it on the cool side.
Embellishments were ditched in favor of some sparkle; in a further nod to the ’90s, a see-through, stretchy crystal mesh tube dress was worn over a black bodysuit, while textured-denim pants were coated in a layer of square-cut sequins. Ruffles replaced other forms of decoration, peeking out from cropped tops, lining loose gilets, or blooming in circular formations on crisp poplin dresses. Make it sleek, but keep it romantic.
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