The new showroom now refurbished just down the road from Prada, the Milan hotel under construction, new stores in Vegas and elsewhere opening next month… Philipp Plein continues to expand at a dizzying pace. And has even greater news—for now in careful development—shortly to come. This pre-collection, which featured the so perennially beauteous that you suspect she has a portrait in the attic Eva Herzigova, was a significant pitstop in the pell-mell Plein narrative: The company’s selling ratio of womenswear to menswear has gone from 25/75 to 30/70 in the last 12 months and the company is determined to further redress the balance.
Here Herzigova convincingly wore a broad spectrum of arresting Plein attire, heavy on the spray-painted faux fur and sequin party dresses in which he specializes, and also more broadly au point in the animalia and slickly cut black separates. Plein’s biggest womenswear category, revenue-wise, is sneakers so here there was a heavy emphasis on heels—another broadening of the spectrum. What is truly arresting to consider is that Plein currently has next to no handbag business which means that the biggest category in the game remains as yet unrealized. The close-up portfolio’s emphasis on Herzigova’s tessitura-effect leather clutch suggested that, too, is soon to change.
In another lane Plein’s menswear continued at cruise control. It was in womenswear that both the urge and opportunity to accelerate was most evident. By operating in a luxury space but unrepentantly outside the realm of luxury’s often intimidatingly judgey atmosphere, Plein’s potential seems to merit putting his foot on the pedal.
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