On the Podcast: Vogue Editors on Marc Jacobs’s 3-Minute Show, the Summer of Underwear, and ‘AJLT’

Summer tends to be sleepy for fashion news, but despite New York’s chill, rain, and wildfire smoke, this week was bright with happenings. The headliner was Monday evening’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Marc Jacobs show. The three-minute-long fall 2023 show at the New York Public Library was widely thought to be Jacobs’s take on the frenetic pace of our tech-addled world, with a pearl-clutchingly banal set of show notes written by ChatGPT. But the fashion, despite flashing by, had staying power. Vogue Runway Director Nicole Phelps, a longtime Jacobs specialist, walks us through the show—from the ’80s-style shoulder pads to the Blade Runner-esque hair.

And while Jacobs’s show was almost intentionally un-Instagrammable due to its speed, on the other side of the Atlantic Simon Porte Jacquemus created one of his trademark extravaganzas. After prior shows set against the salt flats of Camargue and the lavender fields of Provence, this week the French designer presented his clothes on the pond in the Parc de Versailles. Guests watched from rowboat perches as a series of billowing, sheer bubbles of dresses, modeled by the likes of Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, paid apparent homage to Princess Diana.