“Not voyeuristic but erotic,” is how Alessandro Dell’Acqua described his current take on menswear, which he sees as a crossover exercise between feminine and masculine codes. For spring he focused on a celebration of the body, calling for an attitude of “healthy awareness and sincerity, as the body isn’t a mere tool for self-exhibition.”
In his women’s collections, Dell’Acqua has always addressed sensuality and seduction as expressions of individuality, using lingerie, transparencies, and the color of bare flesh as visual vectors of his approach. He transferred the same elements to menswear, “without mixing genders, but sort of ‘spiking’ a very masculine wardrobe with feminine details.”
To that end, he transformed the warp-knit mesh usually used in hosiery and corsetry into T-shirts, latex was cut into stitched bermudas, and sporty anoraks were made from PVC in a cosmetic-pink shade. Hinting at the exercise culture of the ’80s and the vibe of gay sex clubs of that time, sexy shorts were paired with cropped hoodies emblazoned with an ‘Adults Only’ claim. Transparency and nudity played an allusive role throughout the collection, but were kept in check by Dell’Acqua’s eye for streamlined, essential design. Casual in spirit with a few incursions into raw-edged tailoring, the collection had energy, a subtle sense of humor, and lightness mitigating its sexy message.
For all the latest fasion News Click Here
