Alessandro Dell’Acqua had lightness on his mind for resort, not only as a summery feel, but rather as a disposition of the spirit. “I wanted to be transported just by a mood,” he said at a studio appointment.
For Dell’Acqua, summer nights call for the sensuous feel of a flimsy chiffon dress on the skin, or for the liquid ease of a bias-cut slip in silk charmeuse, as languid as a vintage number from the ’30s or ’40s. He isn’t fond of nostalgia though, so his approach was erotic rather than romantic; looks were kept a bit disheveled, as if put together in haste, without much care about being soignée.
You don’t expect hard-edges from Dell’Acqua; his approach is quintessentially feminine and seductive. Here, he played on transparencies, as in skirt suits, pajamas, and little dresses with ruched details, which he alternated with lingerie slips encrusted with Chantilly lace or with bias-cut dresses with long trailing hems pooling around the ankles. The slightly vintage flair was mitigated by a laid-back attitude. “I like it when it’s nonchalant,” he said.
Dell’Acqua’s pragmatic side syncs up with the slightly unconventional. While eminently wearable, his collections offer solutions that are never bland, either for day or evening. The play on contrasts between the androgynous and the feminine kept the looks attuned to the air du temps, giving his take on seduction a more nuanced detour. A good example was a black tailored smoking pantsuit with a slouchy attitude, worn with a pristine white shirt featuring both a bow tie and a string of pearls. On the same note, a severe masculine car coat in black canvas was proposed as an opera coat for evening, studded with tiny embroidered palm trees in shiny black crystals. While drawn to a sense of evanescence, Dell’Acqua balanced the collection with solid, realistic options. He said, “lightness shouldn’t be synonymous with inconsistency.”
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