To visit Naeem Khan’s atelier is to be reminded that casual is a relative term. What his clients wear to lunch, others might don for an important occasion, so it was interesting to see the designer take somewhat of a modular approach to evening wear this season. This collection was heavy on stretch sequined pieces; among the dresses, which came in various lengths, there were shirts, a hoodie top, and leggings, which could be worn together or mixed into an existing wardrobe.
The inspiration for these all-over sparkles came from the American designer Norman Norell’s mermaid dresses, one of which Marilyn Monroe wore to accept her 1962 Golden Globe award. Khan offered more liberal interpretations, as well, featuring more densely layered sequins that were interspersed with feathers, which gave a sort of animality to the design.
Khan is as much a businessman as a designer, and is focused on giving his customer what she wants. What changes season to season are the prints and the decoration. You don’t come to this brand for innovation, but for handicraft, and the references to Khan’s time working for Halston in the 1970s. (Fall’s connection was once removed; it was Halston’s admiration of Norell.) New in terms of technique was Khan’s use of a cashmere hand-stitched embroidery that had a dense, soft texture that perhaps could be adapted to—dare we say it?—separates.
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