Ever since its founding in 1952, Moncler has been inspired by wanderlust: indeed its most famous and fundamental garment, the down jacket, was developed after French mountaineer Lionel Terray told the brand’s founder René Ramillion about a similar item he’d first encountered while on an expedition to Canada.
This core Moncler line, 1952, is one of two permanent house Genius labels alongside the technical wintersports line, Grenoble. It too is about wanderlust, but of a more specifically urban type: its first and fundamental inspiration for Il Paninaro, was the ’80s Milan teen style street style pioneers who embraced Moncler (along with Stone Island) as a defining brand of their subculture.
These days, however much you lust, to wander is complicated. Which is why last autumn 1952’s menswear designer Sergio Zambon decided to collaborate with several Los Angeles based brands before decamping with this collection to Tokyo. As he explained down a Zoom, 1952 worked with that city’s excellently haute-hike clothing label And Wander and its nerdy footwear equivalent, Suicoke, in the development of this lineup.
Looking at these images, you could totally imagine post-Paninaro style tribes from Harajuku to High Street Kensington embracing Zambon’s Vibram soled sandals, felted wide-brimmed hats, powerfully pompom-ed beanies, ribbed-knit outdoors wear, quilted skirting, and, of course, down jackets (some with high-visibility prints by Karo Akpokiere) as a contemporary statement of slouch-core solidarity. This was a collection blending quirk and comfort that was designed to satisfy this strange moment when the eye can travel limitlessly online but the body remains best advised to stay home home—or close to it.
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