The rejuvenation of Missoni is high on Filippo Grazioli’s agenda. Reducing the color palette, letting the house signature patterns breathe on neat silhouettes, and spinning the label in an affordable direction while keeping it “ageless and timeless”—in a word, he’s simplifying the message and toning it down a notch to open it up to a wider audience. “That’s my Missoni crusade,” he said.
For resort, pale cosmetic and sherbet colors were interspersed with optic white and some black to give a fresh spin to the color scheme; lines were kept sleek, with a focus on abbreviated lengths; and graphics were scaled back or magnified into micro-macro patchwork effects. “Missoni Light” seems to be Grazioli’s summer cocktail—fewer ingredients, mildly flavored, not too spicy. He believes that “being minimal makes fabrics and patterns more expressive.”
The intrinsic Missoni feel is one of vitality, passion, and spontaneous joie de vivre. Beyond his penchant for reduction, Grazioli wants to keep this rhythm going. He offered bias-cut lace-trimmed dresses energized by some sequined sparkle for easy summer nights; slender tube dresses with cut-outs and draw-stringed gatherings; and satiny spaghetti-strapped slips with fringed hems for a dash of party heat. Plenty of practical separates were also part of the equation: bralettes, shorts, cropped blousons, and tube tops gave a jolt to everyday summer staples.
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