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Marni will show at New York Fashion Week this September, as part of a multi-season odyssey that will see the Milan house at different fashion weeks across the world.
Creative director Francesco Risso today revealed the surprise move is “about getting closer to our audience” in an exclusive interview with Vogue Business. “We have a very international crowd who come to us in Milan, and we can’t complain about that at all. But still there are a lot of people — people I am very focused on, Marni lovers who are deeply engaged with what we do — who miss out. So, we are going on tour.”
Its first stop will see Risso’s Spring Summer 2023 collection revealed at 9pm on 10 September, at a New York location — the designer declined to divulge the exact whereabouts for now: “We want to keep the surprise for a while longer.” Risso added that the show would be accompanied by a series of events and amplifications held in Marni’s three boutiques across the city. He said: “Friends of the house who might not necessarily be involved in the show, artists, will inhabit the spaces to represent the Italian-ness. I think it’s going to be very interesting to be there.”
Following news of Fendi’s one-off show to take place the previous day, Marni’s announcement strengthens what will be a refreshingly Italian-accented edition of the US’s leading fashion showcase. In an emailed comment, the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s CEO Steven Kolb said the organisation “is delighted to welcome Marni to New York Fashion Week. The official NYFW schedule represents the diversity of our homegrown creatives and also underscores our city as an inspiration and destination for international talent, and we look forward to seeing Francesco Risso’s new collection for Marni this September.” The other significant decampment known so far in the season is Raf Simons exiting Paris in order to show in London.
Risso, long a key member of the Prada team, was handed the creative directorship of Marni in 2016. Until then, output from the 1994-founded house had been designed under co-founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who along with her husband Gianni sold a controlling stake to Diesel founder Renzo Rosso in 2012. Rosso purchased the remainder of their shares in 2015, when it was fully incorporated into his Only The Brave Group. Risso’s contract was renewed in 2020.
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