When something is stuck in Kris Goyri’s mind, he doesn’t let it drop until the idea is perfected. Picking up where his previous collection left off, he touched again on the power of color and color-blocking. This time, however, he was inspired by organic forms, specifically the funghi realm.
The collection that took the runway yesterday unfolded as an ethereal dream. Details that are now Goyri’s signatures, such as pleated silk (a technique that could be compared to that of Fortuny) and buttons were all present in this collection. But there was something special about the composition that made it dynamic; perhaps it was dresses featuring flowing and translucent tops completed with subtle ruffled skirts, or the minidresses that felt both fresh to the eye and captivating for their vibrant palette. Then along came suits in a variety of cuts, including one in monochromatic green with a striking cape highlighted by a detail that looked like an abstract plant.
Femininity played an important role throughout, yet Goyri borrowed some forms from Kansai Yamamoto. A clash between the avant-garde idealism of the Japanese generation of the ’70s and the romanticism Goyri typically favors is likely to resonate with the chameleonic women of today. As the last look took over the runway, a green jumpsuit with subtle touches of feathers and an exquisitely tailored color-blocked coat, a feeling of excitement peaked. For the finale, the models showed off their dancing moves, again like last season, to keep the energy alive.
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