Jonathan Cohen’s business and aesthetic both underwent significant change in 2020. He’s showing and delivering his collections at his own pace now, even if it breaks from the rhythm of the fashion calendar; he’s also doing more trunk shows around the U.S. to understand exactly what his customer wants. Design-wise, his fall 2021 collection shown in May marked a sharp pivot away from raw textures and handwork to pretty, exuberant prints (most of them hand-painted by Cohen) and cleaner, more straightforward silhouettes.
Spring 2022, which includes a few looks that are available immediately, continues that evolution. Photographing the clothes against a stark white background emphasizes their sleeker lines and no-fuss appeal: drapey T-shirt dresses in ditsy-print jersey, A-line frocks in rich wildflower jacquard, shirtdresses in a graphic houndstooth motif that reveal bees and honeycombs on closer inspection. Cohen and his business partner Sarah Leff echo what other designers have reported this season: Their customer wants to go out, wear some color, and feel fantastic; it’s really as simple as that. Some of those women might be holding out for his early signatures to return, like the raw-edged slash skirts and midi dresses with tie closures, but spring wasn’t lacking for experimentation or quirk. A sculptural mini skirt was dotted with fabric-covered stones made with leftover scraps from his studio floor, and if you zoom in, you can make out tiny hidden ladybugs and caterpillars in the wildflower print. Cohen’s customer may be feeling for classic silhouettes, but she still expects a touch of humor.
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