The ’90s are back in force these days, which presents ample occasion for Isabel Marant to dip into some of her favorite signatures. For pre-fall, she gave them a little aughties twist, but it’s the mix that makes her such a Parisian icon: washed-out denim cargos with lace are a typical Marantian play.
Masculine, oversized cuts—like a gray double-breasted suit, a roomy black tee, low-slung denims, and ample overcoats—were balanced by feminine touches, like white clogs or thigh-highs in curve-hugging stretch leather. As a counterpoint, she amped up femininity through lingerie inspirations such as a dévoré red velvet corset, a fuchsia stretch linen bustier dress that looked like it could work in any season, or slip dresses like one in black silk satin with broderie anglaise inserts and an open back.
“It’s a femininity that’s a little boyish and rather minimal and discreetly sensual,” the designer offered during a showroom visit. Along with her first lieutenant, Kim Bekker, Marant said she strived to keep silhouettes simple and precise, focusing on refined materials and colors, “so you can just throw on a dress, or pants and a jacket and you’re done.”
Other motifs included embroideries on a velvet halter-neck zip-up and a carpet-like print reprised in pinks and blues on a favorite jacket shape, paired with “leather track pants.” Rather than revolutionize every time, the designer prefers to exercise restraint, stick to her heritage, and bring her vocabulary to different contexts.
“There has to be a certain reasonableness to the joy of buying a new piece of clothing,” Marant said. “These things are meant to stay in closets for a long time, so they have to be done right.”
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