Inking back the black: Soweto Ink’s reversal of the white tattoo gaze

SOWETO – Tattoos have historically had significant meaning in various cultures across the world. People used them for healing purposes, believing that spirits could be summoned by the images they imprinted on their skin.

Some used them to signify social status, accomplishments, protection against bad spirits and affiliation to certain groups of people.

Some of these beliefs still apply in the modern world, albeit with slight differences in meaning. For example, some religious people are convinced that tattoos summon evil spirits, and others get them to represent gang affiliations. More people get them because they find them cool or want to express and document significant moments in their lives.

In South Africa, it’s not uncommon to see suburban lanes with at least one tattoo shop, usually owned and operated by white artists. Along with a documented algorithm problem in Google search, it’s created an impression that tattoos work best on lighter skin tones (or that only white people get inked), even though tattoos owe a lot of their history to African, South American, Asian and Polynesian traditions.

Black-owned professional tattoo and lifestyle shop located in the heart of Soweto – Soweto Ink – is part of a movement hoping to change that perspective. The parlour was established in 2014 by Sibusiso Dlamini and Ndumiso Ramate. Throughout the years, the business has grown, they claim, to be “the biggest black-owned professional tattoo shop in Africa”.

Back home, most black people are acquainted with a “stoek” tattoo – the one done with a needle and ink after school. A metal needle was burnt to sanitise it and keep it hot as it was used to carve out designs on the skin. There was little hygiene and most of the “artists” (your friends) had only a handful of designs they could execute.

But with growing acceptability of tattoos in black communities, people are now seeing it as body art worth paying good money for rather than labels they collect as rebellion.

Soweto Ink solidified itself as a professional outfit by hosting what has become one of the most sought-after tattoo conventions, which attracts visitors from various parts of the world. Soweto Ink parlour was established about seven years ago and this last weekend, its co-founders hosted their fifth annual convention at Orlando Stadium in Soweto.

The convention – which attracted tattoo artists from various parts of the country – was a true lifestyle experience, incorporating music performances, food, drinks and fashion.

Eyewitness News spoke to Ramate about the tattoo business, as well as how him and his partner are ensuring the successful future of black tattoo artists.

EYEWITNESS NEWS: What inspired Soweto Ink?

SOWETO INK: Well, we started in a small back room in Protea Glen. We were inspired by the lack of tattoo culture in Soweto. Back then when we started, there were not a lot of tattoo shops, so we decided to create a professional tattoo shop that was going to be a leader for the whole industry.

You both perform different roles in the business. How did that come about?

SI: When we came together, he knew his strengths and so did I. He had the skill to tattoo, and I took over the marketing. [That arrangement] benefitted us because the convention wasn’t here five years back – black and white people tattooing in one space wasn’t here.

Eight years later, what valuable lessons, challenges, achievements can you share?

SI: When we started, we didn’t know how to navigate the tattoo industry so we had to learn by making mistakes. The first thing we learnt is that there is no school for tattooing, for tattoo marketing. It’s still a tough industry but you need to align yourself with professionals in the space.

We encountered a lot of challenges. We failed, we got kicked out of the house, we owed people, needed working space, started from scratch more than 10 times – every business challenge you can think of, we’ve been through it. This is why we’re able to bounce back.

Being the first professional tattoo shop in Soweto is [one of] our biggest achievements. We are here, setting an example and ensuring that people understand what professional tattooing is.

And you’re big on training young artists too.

SI: We don’t have an academic structure because the government doesn’t have any academic structure when it comes to tattooing. So, with us, it’s all about coming together, learning information and being an apprentice at our shop.

The aim is for upcoming tattoo artists to learn from other professional artists, how to conduct their spaces and how they keep workspaces clean because hygiene is very important.

What inspired the convention and what is its aim?

SI: The convention was inspired by the fact that we couldn’t get into other conventions, especially in Cape Town. The gatherings were also predominantly white spaces that didn’t feel comfortable for everyone. We would apply but we wouldn’t be accepted – unlike with ours where anyone and everyone is welcome, regardless of race. Our criteria is people who can tattoo very well, upcoming tattoo artists but we mostly look at people who are serious about their business.

Is the tattoo industry lucrative?

SI: Yes, it just depends on how you conduct it. Are you in a professional space? Are you able to charge the right prices? Can you do marketing and get clients in? There a lot of things to consider but it is profitable and you can make a living from it.

How have tattoo parlours reinvented themselves post-pandemic?

SI: It’s been hard. It’s still hard but we are adapting. Tattoos are a luxury so sometimes people prioritise other needs. Sometimes people don’t see the need to spend on them because salaries are not increasing and inflation.

What tips would you give someone who’s considering getting a tattoo for the first time?

SI:
1. You first need to get your design in order – know what you want to do.
2. Find a shop on social media that works with your style; one whose artwork you can see is proper and do cross-references with Google to assess accuracy; and that their prices are good and not cheap.

What do you hope to achieve with future conventions?
SI: This year we had challenges with a lot of artists coming because returning would be a problem. We usually have huge numbers of artists coming but others haven’t been able to because business has not been good in the past few months. We are happy that people came and showed love because it’s about celebrating the culture and not about the numbers. It’s about coming together and ensuring that this culture is celebrated by future generations.

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