In London, Vogue100 Celebrated David Koma’s Latest Collection With a Behind-the-Scenes Soirée

Lulu Reynolds and Tumi Fani-Kayode are spotted backstage before the presentation.

Photographed by Joseph Bishop

Few names have survived over a decade on the masthead of the British Fashion Council, and David Koma is one of them. Following his fall 2023 debut, the Georgian-born designer offered the Vogue100 an exclusive behind-the-scenes walkthrough of how his latest vision came to life. Hosted by British Vogue’s Alex Kessler, the pair discussed this season’s themes: Old Hollywood glamour, magnificent monochrome, cocktail party tailoring, and a little bit of East London grunge.

Inspired by the German actress Marlene Dietrich, Koma paid tribute to her fearless style with his modern-day twists on early 20th-century fashion trends. “She’s been someone I’ve admired for a long time,” Koma told Vogue. “I wanted to place her legacy, as well as my adoration for her life’s work, at the center of it all—she was one of the first major names to experiment with androgynous style, which was particularly daring during her time.”

A sprawling view of the city’s skyline welcomed guests to The Standard’s Townhouse. Glasses of bubbly and canapés circulated the mid-century modern penthouse suite before the salon-style presentation began in the plush living room.

From the tuxedo jacket turned mini-skirt ensemble—a modern twist on the look that Deitech wore in “Morocco,” 1930—to the daring two-piece set adorned with red patent-leather florals and gloves, there was much for Kessler and Koma to discuss. The purple gown adorned with diamonds stood out, and, of course, the feathered finale look was a crowd favorite.

Beloved by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Cara Delevigine, Kendall Jenner, and Adele, Koma is found at the most dazzling red carpets and star-studded after parties. Less than 24 hours after his collection walked the runway, Dua Lipa was spotted wearing one of the glittering designs to British Vogue’s annual British Academy Film Awards. I think it’s safe to say that this collection is destined to be brighter than ever.

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