Fashion will always prioritize aesthetics, but given the state of the world any designer alluding to a branch of the armed forces needs to tread carefully. When placed in a sartorial context, phrases like “military” can be reduced to stereotypes. Many collections are peppered with camouflage or come with notes praising the look of fatigues and epaulets. The historical context of each reference matters, as does the way in which the subject is broached. Hyke designers Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode have done their homework when it comes to uniforms. Avid collectors of vintage army, navy, and air force gear from across the globe, they understand the subtle way a soldier’s clothing is used to denote rank, skill set, and even the passage of time.
When the pair began work on their fall 2022 collection, they found themselves intrigued by the marinière shirts worn by the French Navy from the 1850s onward. They’re far from the first designers to look to the iconic blue and white tops—Coco Chanel famously drew inspiration from the sailors of Deauville during her years as a boutique owner in the Côte Fleurie—but their interpretation was novel. Drawing from the ubiquitous Breton shirt’s colors and clean lines, they utilized a cool-toned color palette and decorated pants and tunics with sets of white rectangles.
The naval references allowed the duo to play with aquatic imagery. Peplums on blue knitwear curved like fishtails, while strategic use of tulle made some looks appear to float as models glided down the runway. Raincoats took on exaggerated proportions, with padding expanding them into cocoon-like protective shapes that seemed organic but relied on careful construction. “We wanted to challenge ourselves,” said Ode. “The shapes are made using a tube pattern, and then the quilting is a square pattern, which we don’t usually do. It was all inspired by this quilted liner used in military jackets.”
Fending off the chill, be it from sea air or a city snowstorm, was top of mind this season. “The outerwear grew out of the US Army’s advanced cold-weather clothing systems,” explains Yoshihara. “You’ll have a parka in Gore-tex or a trench coat shape, but it’s all padded for warmth.” To balance their continued use of performance materials like Gore-tex, the pair incorporated fresh elements like Entrant, the breathable waterproof weave launched by Toray Industries, who revolutionized fashion in the ’70s by introducing the world to ultrasuede.
Hyke’s collections are atmosphere pieces, not narratives, so slight shifts take on special significance. Innovations like Entrant added a sporty touch to the anoraks and bombers, but the material that pushed the envelope was tulle; fall marked the first time it graced Hyke’s runway. “We have a tendency to use more masculine, utilitarian materials, but we wanted to add a feminine side,” said Ode. “For us, tulle feels new and layered under the short skirts, and on the ruffles, it adds this softness.” Given the ethereal quality such details contributed to the collection it will be interesting to see how Ode and Yoshihara continue to interpret the newest addition to their textile repertoire.
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