Kure, 10 miles south of Hiroshima, was once a mighty naval and weapons center. Still a base for the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, it’s now well known for its many restaurants serving up signature curries. At Minatomachi Coffee, we sit on the patio overlooking a half-dozen naval submarines warming up their engines at the docks, with baby-faced seamen striding toward them in their civilian clothes. It’s hands-down the most delectable curry of my life, decadent with gyusuji (beef tendon) that melts in your mouth.
While in town, grab a few boxes of curry roux to take back with you (each ship has a slightly different recipe, and some teach it to curry joints onshore) as well as spoons designed specifically for enjoying curry and rice. If you need a jolt of caffeine after, you’re in luck: the town is also known for coffee, another provision necessary for extended periods on a sea vessel. Head to the Subaru Coffee Shop for its so-called navy coffee; legend says the owner tinkered for years to re-create the coffee that fueled the crew of the Yamato, one of the largest battleships ever built.
Spirited Away
Opened in 2019, the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum was the first dedicated to the Japanese folk spirits, monsters, and supernatural beings known collectively as yōkai. Its collection contains some 5,000 artworks and objects, from scroll paintings and woodblock prints to artifacts, life-sized models, and interactive displays, all of which evoke a sense of the unknown among us. (A personal favorite: the Edo-period tale of a hero who exterminates demons by breaking wind.) Its location in the city of Miyoshi happens to be the setting of one of the most famous and influential Edo-era folktales, in which a young boy confronts a yōkai monster every day for a month. Don’t miss making your own yōkai and then seeing it brought to animated life in a dazzling room-size display by TeamLab.
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