Greg Lauren’s collections can start from anything, “even a scrap I find in the corner of the floor,” he says from his Los Angeles studio. In the past, his clothes had a distinct look of being made from something else—and to many, that crafty feel was the draw.
For fall 2022, Lauren has done a slight pivot, replacing obvious collaging with a more streamlined elegance. Even though his tail coats and suits are made from reused materials, they lack the homespun quality of the draped shirts and cargo pants of former collections. Smaller, quilted panels are replaced by large swaths of fabric—in most cases denim, twill, or salvaged cotton. On tailcoats, relaxed suiting, and long beautiful overcoats, the well-loved materials look better than ever. That’s good for Lauren’s business—while he has a cult following of clients who swear by his craftier pieces, this twist into streamlined tailoring has potential to introduce his thoughtful and sustainable brand to a wider audience.
Not to say he is abandoning what made him well-known in fashion. Cargo trousers with oversize pockets are patched with roses and irises, his mother’s favorite flowers, made from upcycled blankets. Fisherman sweaters are chopped up and dyed piece by piece in indigo, then stitched into cardigans with a color palette that looks like the ocean outside Malibu. Lauren also offers them in a peachy rose, the result of dye made from madder root. His partnership with the quilters from Gee’s Bend continues, expanded into a larger part of the business. The quilters worked closely with Lauren this season to create pieces that integrate into his core ready-to-wear message—no longer will their work be a capsule one-off. It’s a good balance between the old and the new.
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