Before diving into this piece, one of my biggest questions about bakuchiol was whether or not it can actually serve as an adequate substitute for retinol—a negotiable ingredient within any anti-aging skincare routine, according to practically every skin pro I’ve ever talked to. The answer? Yes, but also no.
“Studies have shown that bakuchiol is nearly as effective as retinol in targeting fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and photodamage, so it certainly can replace retinol in your regular routine,” Penzi confirms. What’s more, she says that research has demonstrated bakuchiol’s naturally anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects, which make it suitable for targeting acne as well. On the other hand, an ultra-potent product like a prescription retinoid will yield faster, more dramatic results, so if you’re someone with tolerant, non-sensitive skin who doesn’t mind a non-natural product within your skincare routine, traditional retinol products might be your preferred MO for smooth, youthful-looking skin.
“I don’t think you can ever necessarily replace one ingredient for another and expect the exact same results,” points out Lara Devgan, MD, MPH, FACS. In fact, she prefers combining the two into one super-powered product.
“Retinol and bakuchiol have very similar functions which is why they work great together in one product,” Devgan explains. “Bakuchiol is much more gentle, and it has great soothing and hydrating properties that can calm the harsh effects of retinol. I never want my customers to feel that they have to pick one or the other.” One caveat, however, is that retinol should be avoided during pregnancy and nursing, so bakuchiol can be a strategic swap.
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